手腕噴香水后相互摩擦？原來這么多年用香水的方法都錯了
如果你懊惱自己昂貴的香水噴在身上后沒有裝在瓶子里那么好聞，或者在噴完香水離家后一個小時內香味就消失了，那么你用香水的方法可能有問題。
曾調制出迪奧、巴寶莉、蘭蔻等多個知名品牌熱門香水的法國著名調香師弗朗西斯?庫爾吉安近日在接受《Vogue》雜志采訪時透露了女人使用香水的五大誤區。
庫爾吉安指出，要讓香水釋放出最美好的味道，你必須考慮你使用香水的環境以及香水所附著的衣物。不僅如此，如果你不習慣天天噴香水，你最好買小瓶裝，因為香水的保質期通常只有三個月。至于如何正確使用香水，讓我們來聽聽這位調香大師怎么說。
DON'T RUB YOUR WRISTS TOGETHER 不要摩擦手腕
If you're in the habit of spritzing your wrists and then rubbing them together, you're actually ruining the scent.
如果你習慣把香水噴到手腕上，然后將兩個手腕相互摩擦，你其實是在破壞香味。
That's because the friction 'heats up the skin, which produces natural enzymes that change the course of the scent', with the top and middle notes being worst affected as well as the dry-down - the long period during which the fragrance unfolds.
這是因為摩擦“會讓皮膚發熱，從而產生會改變香味階段的天然酶”，前調和中調受的影響最大，后調——香味逐漸釋放的漫長過程——也會受影響。
If you're wearing a floral perfume, for instance, this heat makes it lose its crispness.
如果你用的是花香型香水，這種熱度會讓其喪失清新的味道。
To keep your fragrance smelling like it should, as well as making it last longer, spritz it once and then simply let it sink in.
為了讓你的香水散發出它本應有的美好香氣，并且讓香氣更持久，你只需噴一下，然后讓香水自行滲入皮膚。
DON'T KEEP IT IN THE BATHROOM 不要把香水放在浴室里
Perfume is extremely sensitive to environmental changes and will be impacted by changes such as going from cold to hot.
香水對外界變化極其敏感，并會因此受到影響，比如溫度由冷變熱。
This process sets off 'unexpected chemical reactions within the natural ingredients' of the perfume such as patchouli, meaning your perfume will age faster and start to smell 'off'.
溫度變化會引發香水的“天然原料（比如廣藿香）之間意想不到的化學反應”，這意味著你的香水會“老得更快”，開始“變味”。
The best way to store your fragrance is in its original box at room temperature.
儲存香水的最好方式就是放在原裝盒子里，置于室溫環境中。
DO OPT FOR SMALLER SIZES 選擇小瓶裝的香水
If you are lucky enough to have lots of bottles or you don't use your favourite perfume every day, oxygen will start to break down the molecules as it languishes on your dressing table.
如果你足夠幸運，擁有許許多多瓶香水，或者你不是天天用最愛的香水，那么氧氣就會開始打破香水的分子結構，使其在你的化妝臺上漸漸揮發、變質。
A typical bottle has a shelf life of three months so if you're not using a perfume daily, you're best off buying a smaller variety.
典型香水的保質期是三個月，所以，如果不是天天用香水，你最好買一個小瓶裝的。
Or you could decant your bigger bottles into smaller containers and keep them in the fridge to maintain perfection.
或者你可以把你的大瓶裝香水分裝到幾個小瓶，把它們放到冰箱里，以保持完美的香味。
DO EMBRACE SYNTHETICS 選擇含人造成分的香水
The idea of a perfume that boasts of being all-natural might sound appealing, but the fragrance may well let you down.
打著純天然旗號的香水也許聽著很有吸引力，但是這種香水的香味會讓你失望。
Musk, which was formerly derived from animals, is probably the most popular fragrance ingredient but must be created synthetically.
麝香很可能是最受歡迎的香水原料，過去取自于動物，現在只能人工合成。
Other popular smells, such as peony, freesia, and lily of the valley, can't be extracted naturally as they don't release enough aroma so they must be re-created.
其他受歡迎的香味，比如芍藥、小蒼蘭、鈴蘭，不能通過自然手段提取，因為這些花釋放的香味不足，所以必須人工再造。
According to Kurkdjian the ideal formula is a blend of essential oils, absolutes, and man-made ingredients.
庫爾吉安指出，最理想的香水配方是精油、凈油和人工原料的混合。
DO SPRITZ IT ON YOUR HAIR 把香水噴在頭發上
Perfume actually doesn't last too long on dry skin, according to Kurkdjian and as you sweat the natural oils destroy the fragrance.
庫爾吉安指出，香水其實不能在干燥的皮膚上停留太久，在你流汗時，天然的油脂會破壞香味。
You can combat this by using the matching body lotion or making sure your moisturiser isn't scented so it doesn't interfere.
你可以通過使用和香水氣味相配的身體乳或不含香精的潤膚露來防止香味互相干擾。
If you want to ensure longevity, mist your scent lightly on your hair or on a scarf.
如果你想讓香水留香時間持久，你可以把香水輕輕噴灑在頭發上，或者圍巾上。
'Because they move with the air, it helps with the diffusion of the scent,' he explained.
他解釋道：“因為頭發和圍巾隨風飄動，這有助于香氣的彌漫。”
If you are putting perfume on your skin, target spots that are exposed to the air.
如果你把香水噴在皮膚上，最好噴在暴露在空氣中的身體部位。
It's no good putting it on pulse points such as the wrists and inner elbows if they're covered up.
如果手腕或手肘被衣物覆蓋的話，把香水噴在手腕或手肘內側等脈搏跳動處是沒有用的。
如果你懊惱自己昂貴的香水噴在身上后沒有裝在瓶子里那么好聞，或者在噴完香水離家后一個小時內香味就消失了，那么你用香水的方法可能有問題。
曾調制出迪奧、巴寶莉、蘭蔻等多個知名品牌熱門香水的法國著名調香師弗朗西斯?庫爾吉安近日在接受《Vogue》雜志采訪時透露了女人使用香水的五大誤區。
庫爾吉安指出，要讓香水釋放出最美好的味道，你必須考慮你使用香水的環境以及香水所附著的衣物。不僅如此，如果你不習慣天天噴香水，你最好買小瓶裝，因為香水的保質期通常只有三個月。至于如何正確使用香水，讓我們來聽聽這位調香大師怎么說。
DON'T RUB YOUR WRISTS TOGETHER 不要摩擦手腕
If you're in the habit of spritzing your wrists and then rubbing them together, you're actually ruining the scent.
如果你習慣把香水噴到手腕上，然后將兩個手腕相互摩擦，你其實是在破壞香味。
That's because the friction 'heats up the skin, which produces natural enzymes that change the course of the scent', with the top and middle notes being worst affected as well as the dry-down - the long period during which the fragrance unfolds.
這是因為摩擦“會讓皮膚發熱，從而產生會改變香味階段的天然酶”，前調和中調受的影響最大，后調——香味逐漸釋放的漫長過程——也會受影響。
If you're wearing a floral perfume, for instance, this heat makes it lose its crispness.
如果你用的是花香型香水，這種熱度會讓其喪失清新的味道。
To keep your fragrance smelling like it should, as well as making it last longer, spritz it once and then simply let it sink in.
為了讓你的香水散發出它本應有的美好香氣，并且讓香氣更持久，你只需噴一下，然后讓香水自行滲入皮膚。
DON'T KEEP IT IN THE BATHROOM 不要把香水放在浴室里
Perfume is extremely sensitive to environmental changes and will be impacted by changes such as going from cold to hot.
香水對外界變化極其敏感，并會因此受到影響，比如溫度由冷變熱。
This process sets off 'unexpected chemical reactions within the natural ingredients' of the perfume such as patchouli, meaning your perfume will age faster and start to smell 'off'.
溫度變化會引發香水的“天然原料（比如廣藿香）之間意想不到的化學反應”，這意味著你的香水會“老得更快”，開始“變味”。
The best way to store your fragrance is in its original box at room temperature.
儲存香水的最好方式就是放在原裝盒子里，置于室溫環境中。
DO OPT FOR SMALLER SIZES 選擇小瓶裝的香水
If you are lucky enough to have lots of bottles or you don't use your favourite perfume every day, oxygen will start to break down the molecules as it languishes on your dressing table.
如果你足夠幸運，擁有許許多多瓶香水，或者你不是天天用最愛的香水，那么氧氣就會開始打破香水的分子結構，使其在你的化妝臺上漸漸揮發、變質。
A typical bottle has a shelf life of three months so if you're not using a perfume daily, you're best off buying a smaller variety.
典型香水的保質期是三個月，所以，如果不是天天用香水，你最好買一個小瓶裝的。
Or you could decant your bigger bottles into smaller containers and keep them in the fridge to maintain perfection.
或者你可以把你的大瓶裝香水分裝到幾個小瓶，把它們放到冰箱里，以保持完美的香味。
DO EMBRACE SYNTHETICS 選擇含人造成分的香水
The idea of a perfume that boasts of being all-natural might sound appealing, but the fragrance may well let you down.
打著純天然旗號的香水也許聽著很有吸引力，但是這種香水的香味會讓你失望。
Musk, which was formerly derived from animals, is probably the most popular fragrance ingredient but must be created synthetically.
麝香很可能是最受歡迎的香水原料，過去取自于動物，現在只能人工合成。
Other popular smells, such as peony, freesia, and lily of the valley, can't be extracted naturally as they don't release enough aroma so they must be re-created.
其他受歡迎的香味，比如芍藥、小蒼蘭、鈴蘭，不能通過自然手段提取，因為這些花釋放的香味不足，所以必須人工再造。
According to Kurkdjian the ideal formula is a blend of essential oils, absolutes, and man-made ingredients.
庫爾吉安指出，最理想的香水配方是精油、凈油和人工原料的混合。
DO SPRITZ IT ON YOUR HAIR 把香水噴在頭發上
Perfume actually doesn't last too long on dry skin, according to Kurkdjian and as you sweat the natural oils destroy the fragrance.
庫爾吉安指出，香水其實不能在干燥的皮膚上停留太久，在你流汗時，天然的油脂會破壞香味。
You can combat this by using the matching body lotion or making sure your moisturiser isn't scented so it doesn't interfere.
你可以通過使用和香水氣味相配的身體乳或不含香精的潤膚露來防止香味互相干擾。
If you want to ensure longevity, mist your scent lightly on your hair or on a scarf.
如果你想讓香水留香時間持久，你可以把香水輕輕噴灑在頭發上，或者圍巾上。
'Because they move with the air, it helps with the diffusion of the scent,' he explained.
他解釋道：“因為頭發和圍巾隨風飄動，這有助于香氣的彌漫。”
If you are putting perfume on your skin, target spots that are exposed to the air.
如果你把香水噴在皮膚上，最好噴在暴露在空氣中的身體部位。
It's no good putting it on pulse points such as the wrists and inner elbows if they're covered up.
如果手腕或手肘被衣物覆蓋的話，把香水噴在手腕或手肘內側等脈搏跳動處是沒有用的。
